570-8 Giommachi Minamigawa, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto, Japan
¥¥¥¥ ・ Japanese
Two Stars: Excellent cooking
In the culinary world, Norio Yamamoto treads his own path, which he calls sumibi-kappo, ‘charcoal-fired kappo’. What he prizes is fragrance, and the menu is replete with charcoal-grilled aromas. Soup dishes contain grilled items whose smoky flavour transfers to the dashi soup stock. For grilled items, guests can choose from tilefish, eel, wagyu beef and much else. From the primitive technique of char-grilling springs the breath, the ‘ifuki’, of the ingredients, hence the name of the restaurant.