35 Nanzenji Kusagawacho, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto, Japan
¥¥¥¥ ・ Japanese
Three Stars: Exceptional cuisine
This traditional restaurant began its 450-year history as a teahouse on the approach to Nanzen-ji Temple. The premises have retained much of their character while accruing features from each passing era, and the same is true of the fare. Two generations have combined fluidity with constancy, layering gradual innovation on top of unchanging Hyotei tradition. Soup made with dried tuna instead of dried bonito was the innovation of Eiichi Takahashi, while tomato soy sauce with decorative sashimi of Akashi sea bream of current owner-chef Yoshihiro Takahashi.