Rúa Do Cárcere 7, Allariz, Spain
€€€ ・ Contemporary
A unique restaurant occupying the stone house that was once home to the century-old Casa Fandiño restaurant. Today, the name, which translates as the “murmur of the river” in Galician, pays a discreet tribute to the poem Dark Shadow by the renowned Galician poet Rosalía de Castro. The first thing that strikes you here is the meticulous, rustic-contemporary interior decor, which is almost an extension of the charm found in the streets of Allariz. Madrid-born chef Luis Moreno, who previously enjoyed success alongside fellow chef Daniel Ochoa at the Montia restaurant in San Lorenzo del Escorial, created this project in the town where he always spent his summers. Dining options are based around two tasting menus: one short option entitled “Río” and a second longer one called Marmurio. The chef works with small-scale producers from the locality and the Sierra de Madrid, and even uses lemons from his own lemon tree! Through his menus, he tries to draw comparisons with the tame and at times wilder characteristics of the local River Arnoia.