8 rue du Château, Courcelles-sur-Vesle, France
€€€€ ・ Modern Cuisine
With the arrival of Italian chef Massimiliano Sena (originally from Sorrento), armed with his impressive CV, this noble and elegant Grand Siècle-style residence has entered a modern culinary era that bodes well. Local and seasonal ingredients take pride of place, and the chef's Italian roots make themselves felt in a delicate and subtle manner. There's no showboating or recourse to culinary techniques just for the sake of it; the confident expertise and harmoniously preserved marriages of flavours allow diners to fully appreciate the slow-cooked egg with its airy chanterelle mousse, or the cod with courgette, raspberry and black garlic. Terrific wine list with over 700 wines. There is a pleasant view of the formal garden and canal from the glass-roofed dining area.