70 rue du Commerce, Rion-des-Landes, France
€€ ・ Modern Cuisine
Bib Gourmand: good quality, good value cooking
Housed in a half-timbered building that is typical of this part of France, this restaurant is the domain of Mathis Devaux. The son, grandson and nephew of chefs, you could say he was born into the profession. Expect a decor of terracotta floor tiles and exposed beams, with crockery and tables designed and made by local craftspeople. The chef concocts modern bistro cuisine, drawing on local produce (including black Gascon pork) in dishes such as poached monkfish, fondant leeks with aioli and zest of black lemon, or chocolate and fleur de sel Genoise sponge, vanilla mascarpone cream and a cherry gelée.