36 route des Montils, Candé-sur-Beuvron, France
€€€ ・ Modern Cuisine
Idyllically located for anyone touring the châteaux of the Loire, this inn, firmly in the zeitgeist, is run by an enterprising couple who work together in a bucolic setting of forests and meadows. The original 18C farmhouse has been replaced by a modern building, which reflects the chef's culinary ethos that favours local produce (girolle mushrooms, regional veggies, honey, Racan pigeon, Touraine pork, etc.), but also his homeland, Brittany, illustrated by a wafer-thin tart of spider crab covered in a warm mayonnaise flavoured with sea urchin roe. Each legible dish is a masterclass of exquisite plating and crisp forthright flavours.